Skunks dig up lawns looking for grubs, leave cone-shaped holes behind, and stink up the place if they get spooked. The good news is they are not hard to push out once you remove what is drawing them in. The bad news is that spraying a repellent alone usually is not enough. You have to remove the food, the shelter, and then close the door behind them. The DIY vs. pro quiz tells you in five questions whether this one is a job for you or for a licensed pro.
Why skunks are in your yard
Skunks come for three things: food, water, and a place to den. The usual culprits are pet food left outside, spilled bird seed, unsecured garbage, a compost pile with food scraps, and grubs in the lawn. Grubs are the big one, because a skunk will rip up turf all night digging for them.
How to know it is skunks
- Small, cone-shaped holes in the lawn and garden.
- A lingering musky smell near the ground.
- Droppings that contain insect parts and seeds.
- Tracks with five toes and visible claw marks.
Skunks are mostly active at dusk, dawn, and overnight, so a sighting around those times confirms it. They are timid animals and would rather waddle off than spray, so give them room and they usually leave you alone.
The removal plan
- Remove food. Secure garbage, bring pet food in at night, clean up spilled seed, and cover the compost.
- Remove shelter. Seal gaps under decks and sheds, clear brush piles, and get firewood up off the ground.
- Treat the grubs. No grubs, no reason to dig. Milky spore and beneficial nematodes both work, just apply them when grubs are near the surface.
- Add deterrents. Granular repellents or motion-activated sprinklers can help push a skunk to move on, but only after the food and shelter are gone.
- Trap if needed. A live cage trap baited with something smelly works, but check your local rules first and cover the trap before you move it so you do not get sprayed.
- Fence to keep them out. A hardware cloth fence buried at the bottom and bent outward stops them from digging back under.
The fencing that actually works
For a persistent problem, a physical barrier beats any spray. Use galvanized hardware cloth, run it a few feet above ground, and bury the bottom with the lower edge bent outward. Skunks are poor climbers, so a smooth fence a few feet tall is enough once the bottom is buried.
Frequently Asked Questions
Cone-shaped holes in the lawn, a musky smell, droppings with insect parts, and sightings at dusk. Those four together are a pretty clear picture.
If there is no food or shelter, yes, usually. If they have a den under your deck or shed, you may need to actively encourage them out.
Once you remove the food and shelter, most skunks move on within a week or two. Trapping can speed that up, but only if the attractants are already gone.
They will if the food and shelter are still there. A new skunk will move into the same den. Fix the attractants and add fencing, and the problem stays solved.
